I couldn't help wondering whether large franchises like Shoprite, bringing so much value to remote towns such as Kitwe and Solwezi with truckloads of produce from SA, also transports back all the plastic waste to somewhere it can be recycled or disposed of properly. I had hoped the system would leap-frog into the future (i.e. the past) where food stuff and other consumables are sold in their natural state without the need for single use packaging. Anyway, what do I know of these complex things.
Everythere we go people have been really good to us, friendly and engaging, asking about South Africa and about our trip. To our shame the looting in SA has been in the local news and Zambians often curiously ask us how things are now and if they have calmed down. This was also the subject of a few jokes; a Zambian police official asking us with a chuckle if we didn't perhaps bring him a fridge or two from SA.
Driving in a 4x4, although I love the trip, isn't an ideal way to get to know a place - we both think cycling, walking or backpacking is more synchronised to the pace of everyday life here. But at least the roads are staccato'd by veterinary checks, police checks and toll gates, so we frequently get the chance to say hi, how are you, and make some small talk, albeit only in a semi official way. One of the spin-offs of covid is that we're usually the only foreigners at any given place (except the PCR qeue, haha), so at restaurants, guesthouses and campsites it is mostly Zambians enjoying what the tourist scene has to offer.
Althought we've been camping for almost 3 months, we still make rookie errors. Today we had another false start as we realised, after driving a while, that my phone was missing. We drove back to the camp site, searched the grass, and of course, eventually found the thing folded up in the roof tent. Despite our rigid system of packing this was the third time we 'lost' something up there, the other was a kindle and a coffee mug (both still fine thankfully!)
Yesterday we had another funny and fortunate false start when, stopping to check the tires, we noticed that the tire pressure monitor (an expensive little bluetooth device) on one of the wheels was missing. We drove the bumpy road back to camp and 20 min later, tail between our legs, started searching in the grassy camp grounds where we camped. The caretaker and few of the other locals immediately started helping, and eventually an elderly man, with one squint eye and very broken English, found the silly thing.
But yes, we've never had issues with our equipment, apart from there being too much of it, and we giving half of it away en route. Sometimes we misplace things or forget to tie down the chairs so they come rattling down onto the passenger seats on a bumpy road. Usually, though, there is space for extra passengers, so now and then we give someone a lift. Having extra people in the car always triggers vivid memories of public transport and long, dusty roads with bundles of onions, baskets of fish or a small baby wrapped in cloths. Even this last sentence reminds me how steeped I feel in the Biblical story whenever I'm traveling in Africa. Is it the millions of churches here? Or do I just feel part of a rural vernacular in which sowers, wise men, shepherds and priests aren't children book characters, but real life adults sweating and living their lives. I imagine that Simon Peter and Andrew must have owned Mokoros and that Mary was the young girl in the back of the car with her baby yesterday. All these biblical objects and persons are so much more alive here. Suffering, poverty, joy, so much more pronounced.
My ukulele, which August kindly consented to bring along despite its size, is still in one piece and is a great joy to me around the camp fire or during an idle hour or two. Our other most loved luxury items must be our kindles, our bialetti and our audio books (dankie oom Okkie). The daily ritual of setting up and breaking camp is now like second nature, although of course we get tired of it, and, admittedly, we've only done it in pretty good weather. I'm sure when we hit the torrents (and humidity) of the equator we'll do some proper 'character building' in this regard.
It is also a real luxury to have contact with home, with whatsapp being cheap (10gig for about R70) And of course there are apps and GPS, and travel guides and medicine, making it all pretty comfortable. Traveling definitely isn't as hard core as it was in the past, but maybe someone will look back on our time and think the same.
To new friends along the way,
Y&A
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