Lake Malawi apparently contains more species of fish than any other lake, so it was stunning to go diving there, swimming in the cool water, exploring small islands and rock outcroppings and watching the neon blue cichlids feeding on the rocky lake floor.
A few days in we had our second flat tyre of the trip, and jacking up the car in the blazing heat with 50 school kids staring us down a slightly trying experience.
Initially I felt a bit disconnected from the Malawian people - the lake people seemed lethargic, dusty, less self-confident than the Tanzanians and Ugandans, and many along the shore debilitated by smoking weed. But this impression changed as we traveled south, saw more urban people and people trying to make something of their country.
We spent a day visiting friends I met at the international fellowship (SIF) more than 6 years ago. The Gondwe's built up a local private school
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