People have different reasons for raving about game drives and getting up close with wildlife, birds and animals.
For me, and August I think, it is twofold.
To some degree it is about knowledge and conservation. We love learning how the bush functions as a system; the role of each plant, animal, insect and bird, and how each do what they do in a seamless dance of give and take. Most human systems are frustrating and immature in comparison to how beautifully nature functions, if given half a chance of course. Our time with conservationist Johan van Jaarsveld has given us much perspective in this regard. Humans seem to be the only dance partner 'out of step' with the rest of the earth's amazing symphony, and we're missing out, rather than ruling the roost.
So we love going to parks, seeing bird and beast properly respected and protected, just doing their thing, and learning from them. A good outdoor education might save your life too. Aug and I have both been in tricky situations where reading the weather, the lie of the landscape and sometimes the behaviour of the beasties have saved us from some nasty outcomes (...mostly self-inflicted, lol, but it makes for good stories).
Secondly, being in the bush isn't very different from being at home. Because we are neither separate fom nature nor independent from it. What do I mean by this? Well the cuppuccino on your table is a forest of trees (beans) a field of cattle (milk) a quarry of clay (ceramics) and possibly a few barrels of oil and some coal resources. We interact with nature every moment of our lives. In the city we're just less conscious of it. And we need nature to be 'doing nature' in order for us to stay alive and thrive (...and drink coffee). For me its not so much about 'being green' or saving the planet. Being in the veld, identifying birds, learning about spoor and plants and being able to navigate with sun and stars is just a normal part of being a human creature on a planet filled with other life forms.
Chobe game reserve (Botswana) spoilt us with some wonderful animal encounters, and it was a treat to learn from Johan, both about wildlife and about photography. Currently we're in Savuti (just saw a heap of round-bellied lions asleep under a tree), witnessed herds of buffalo and elephant too plentiful to count (Thobelo's reserve), and marked off many, many birds and small mammals on our lists. The camping is getting wilder and wilder, and the calendar days passing way to quickly.
Our thoughts are with all our friends and family with the increased covid restrictions, limitations and/or recovery from illness. May the mini 'wildlife reserves' in your back yard or outside your office window inspire you, reminding you of the flamboyance, resilience and intelligence of nature, of which you are part.
02 July 2021
28 June 2021
Ons groet Namibië
Ons is tans in Chobe natuurreservaat by 'n vriend van n vriend, besig om te wag vir 'n ratel wat dikwels by sy huis kom hallo sê. Toe ons koffie drink op die stoep vanmiddag het daar olifante verbygestap, en die rooibokke drink graag water by sy 'visdam'. Dis die eerste dag van ons tweede land op die trip, Botswana. En die eerste keer wat ons in n gewone bed slaap in n wyle.
Grensposte kan interessant raak, maar ons is sonder moeite deur, behalwe vir die twee covid neustoetse - een vooraf, en dan nog een wanneer jy Botswana binnekom. Alles was gelukkig negatief. Daar was ook n baie negatiewe 2-jarige wie se ma haar moes vang vir haar toets by Katima Mulila. En ons oë het maar bietjie getraan van daardie wonderlike toetse en hoe bly ons was om te kan travel.
Ons laaste week in die noorde van Namibië was in vele opsigte anders. Uit n skilder se oog is die landskappe nie so majestieus en treffend soos vroeër nie. Die horison is 'nader' en bebos, die paaie is vuilgrys en daar is minder berge en koppies. Maar dis anders mooi - mens soek die mooi in kleiner detail van die landskap, in 'n byevreter op n doeie tak, of die blink van die water as n seekoei skielik deur die lelies breek.
Dit gaan goed in die huis op wiele. Ons het verder aan ons paksisteem gewerk, nog oorbodige kampgoed weggegee en beter in die roetine van kamp op- en afslaan gekom. Hier en daar was stukke teerpad lank en vervelig, en August het my op die agtersitplek laat slaap. Maar daar was ook baie om te sien en baie hoogtepunte. Al is die maande van Junie en Julie die droeë seisoen is daar nou heelwat meer water, meer mense en meer diere as in die suide. Ons het begin wild kyk in die kleiner, minder bekende parke en was dikwels een van slegs 3 motors by n kampplek. Nkasa Rupala is byvoorbeeld n reservaat wat jaarliks tot 80% oorspoel en die voëls hier was besonders. Ons het ons eerste 'water crossing' met die kar gehad en ek het my eerste wildkamp ervaring gehad waar daar geen grense tussen ons en die diere was nie. Ek was super gespanne, maar dis n regte 'feeling alive' ervaring. Jou sintuie is verskerp en jy besef hoe klein en weerloos n mens werklik is.
Maar vir nou slaap ons eers bietjie in n baksteenhuis, as gaste by Oom Johan v Jaarsveld wat gidse oplei by Chobe game lodge en baie kennis besit oor die natuur en die Botswana omgewing. Ons geniet sy stories en lewenservaring, en veral die staaltjies oor wat die buitelandse toeriste alles aanvang by die lodge, soos die een wat in sy wit japonjas afgestap het rivier toe, ingespring het en rustig vir die angsbevange personeel gesê het hy WIL nou swem.
Ons hoop om vir n paar weke hierdie mooi land te verken, en dan te besluit waarheen volgende.
Groete uit Chobe,
Ydi en August
Grensposte kan interessant raak, maar ons is sonder moeite deur, behalwe vir die twee covid neustoetse - een vooraf, en dan nog een wanneer jy Botswana binnekom. Alles was gelukkig negatief. Daar was ook n baie negatiewe 2-jarige wie se ma haar moes vang vir haar toets by Katima Mulila. En ons oë het maar bietjie getraan van daardie wonderlike toetse en hoe bly ons was om te kan travel.
Ons laaste week in die noorde van Namibië was in vele opsigte anders. Uit n skilder se oog is die landskappe nie so majestieus en treffend soos vroeër nie. Die horison is 'nader' en bebos, die paaie is vuilgrys en daar is minder berge en koppies. Maar dis anders mooi - mens soek die mooi in kleiner detail van die landskap, in 'n byevreter op n doeie tak, of die blink van die water as n seekoei skielik deur die lelies breek.
Dit gaan goed in die huis op wiele. Ons het verder aan ons paksisteem gewerk, nog oorbodige kampgoed weggegee en beter in die roetine van kamp op- en afslaan gekom. Hier en daar was stukke teerpad lank en vervelig, en August het my op die agtersitplek laat slaap. Maar daar was ook baie om te sien en baie hoogtepunte. Al is die maande van Junie en Julie die droeë seisoen is daar nou heelwat meer water, meer mense en meer diere as in die suide. Ons het begin wild kyk in die kleiner, minder bekende parke en was dikwels een van slegs 3 motors by n kampplek. Nkasa Rupala is byvoorbeeld n reservaat wat jaarliks tot 80% oorspoel en die voëls hier was besonders. Ons het ons eerste 'water crossing' met die kar gehad en ek het my eerste wildkamp ervaring gehad waar daar geen grense tussen ons en die diere was nie. Ek was super gespanne, maar dis n regte 'feeling alive' ervaring. Jou sintuie is verskerp en jy besef hoe klein en weerloos n mens werklik is.
Maar vir nou slaap ons eers bietjie in n baksteenhuis, as gaste by Oom Johan v Jaarsveld wat gidse oplei by Chobe game lodge en baie kennis besit oor die natuur en die Botswana omgewing. Ons geniet sy stories en lewenservaring, en veral die staaltjies oor wat die buitelandse toeriste alles aanvang by die lodge, soos die een wat in sy wit japonjas afgestap het rivier toe, ingespring het en rustig vir die angsbevange personeel gesê het hy WIL nou swem.
Ons hoop om vir n paar weke hierdie mooi land te verken, en dan te besluit waarheen volgende.
Groete uit Chobe,
Ydi en August
18 June 2021
Bietjie wegraak in die ooptes
Ons sein was min en het gister eers gehoor van die stygende covid-getalle in SA en Namibië. Ons dink daarom aan al ons familie en kenisse wat positief getoets het.
Dit was 'n vol week en daarom soveel stories om te deel. Ons het Namibië suid tot noord getoer en bevind onsself tans in Etosha, 'n vreemd-beskaafte kontras tot die 'wild camp' en afsondering van die afgelope week.
Kaokoland en Damaraland was vir ons moeilik om agter te laat. Dis n spesiale stuk aarde.
Ek dink baie oor die pad. Namibië is die maklikste dele van ons toer in baie opsigte, die paaie is geskraap, die weer is mooi, die winkels volop en die mense Afrikaans. Maar om 'voltyds' te kamp vra klein maar merkbare aanpassings in lewensstyl.
Voorbeeld:
Die drinkwater is brak. Die periodes tussen klere was raak langer. Die periodes tussen harewas en stort is heelwat langer. Die hoeveelheid koffies per dag verminder na slegs een koppie per persoon per dag (en mens koester elke slukkie van hom). Jou hakstene is gebars. Jy kyk waar jy trap, let op wat jy sien, en raak weer ekonomies oor hoe jy goed gebruik. Batterye, verkoeling, warm water - dis alles toordery! En pro-vitas is weer lekker en wortels soet. Met elke fase van die toer sal ons nog aanpassings en toegewings moet maak, maar vir my en August is dit klein pryse om te betaal vir die vreugde van die langpad!
Ons noordwaartse roete moes vir eers stop by die groot Kunene, want Angola se grens is al sedert Desember toe vir toerisme. Ná Etosha mik ons Caprivi strook toe en daarvanaf na Zambië en Botswana, as alles goed gaan.
Vandeesweek se hoogtepunte sluit in: woestynolifante wat ons kamp kom besoek in die nagtelike ure by Brandberg; renosterspore in die sandpad; die rotskuns en erfenis by Twyfelfontein; dat ons The Patriot ontmoet het sowel as Major Tom (albei ry Toyotas); kamp en stap by Epupavalle; 'n epic, verlate twee-dag 4x4 in die Hoarosib rivier canyon (August sê hy dink meer mense het al Everest geklim as wat daardie pad oorleef het).
Laagepunte (of goeie stories) sluit in: dat ons sonpaneel omgewaai het en nou in n duisend stukkies is (uhm, naaste plaasvervanger in Windhoek..?); dat die cruiser in 'n bietjie sinksand vasgesit het vir so paar uur in die rivierloop; oosweer in Swakopmund; dat ons die verkeerde duin 45 geklim het (face palm); en dat die swartrenoster ons ontduik het.
Mag die ooptes en eenvoud van die langpad jul inspireer in die week wat kom.
Ydi
NS. daar is ook aspekte van 'voltyds kamp' wat presies dieselfde is as by die huis. Aug los nogsteeds sy klere op die vloer (van die cruiser).
Vir fotos kyk gerus op instagram (jammer daarvoor) #socialmedia #watisdit
@overlandtrip2021
Dit was 'n vol week en daarom soveel stories om te deel. Ons het Namibië suid tot noord getoer en bevind onsself tans in Etosha, 'n vreemd-beskaafte kontras tot die 'wild camp' en afsondering van die afgelope week.
Kaokoland en Damaraland was vir ons moeilik om agter te laat. Dis n spesiale stuk aarde.
Ek dink baie oor die pad. Namibië is die maklikste dele van ons toer in baie opsigte, die paaie is geskraap, die weer is mooi, die winkels volop en die mense Afrikaans. Maar om 'voltyds' te kamp vra klein maar merkbare aanpassings in lewensstyl.
Voorbeeld:
Die drinkwater is brak. Die periodes tussen klere was raak langer. Die periodes tussen harewas en stort is heelwat langer. Die hoeveelheid koffies per dag verminder na slegs een koppie per persoon per dag (en mens koester elke slukkie van hom). Jou hakstene is gebars. Jy kyk waar jy trap, let op wat jy sien, en raak weer ekonomies oor hoe jy goed gebruik. Batterye, verkoeling, warm water - dis alles toordery! En pro-vitas is weer lekker en wortels soet. Met elke fase van die toer sal ons nog aanpassings en toegewings moet maak, maar vir my en August is dit klein pryse om te betaal vir die vreugde van die langpad!
Ons noordwaartse roete moes vir eers stop by die groot Kunene, want Angola se grens is al sedert Desember toe vir toerisme. Ná Etosha mik ons Caprivi strook toe en daarvanaf na Zambië en Botswana, as alles goed gaan.
Vandeesweek se hoogtepunte sluit in: woestynolifante wat ons kamp kom besoek in die nagtelike ure by Brandberg; renosterspore in die sandpad; die rotskuns en erfenis by Twyfelfontein; dat ons The Patriot ontmoet het sowel as Major Tom (albei ry Toyotas); kamp en stap by Epupavalle; 'n epic, verlate twee-dag 4x4 in die Hoarosib rivier canyon (August sê hy dink meer mense het al Everest geklim as wat daardie pad oorleef het).
Laagepunte (of goeie stories) sluit in: dat ons sonpaneel omgewaai het en nou in n duisend stukkies is (uhm, naaste plaasvervanger in Windhoek..?); dat die cruiser in 'n bietjie sinksand vasgesit het vir so paar uur in die rivierloop; oosweer in Swakopmund; dat ons die verkeerde duin 45 geklim het (face palm); en dat die swartrenoster ons ontduik het.
Mag die ooptes en eenvoud van die langpad jul inspireer in die week wat kom.
Ydi
NS. daar is ook aspekte van 'voltyds kamp' wat presies dieselfde is as by die huis. Aug los nogsteeds sy klere op die vloer (van die cruiser).
Vir fotos kyk gerus op instagram (jammer daarvoor) #socialmedia #watisdit
@overlandtrip2021
07 June 2021
Slowing down
I think we are starting to 'sink in' deeper to life on the road. We've covered 5000km so far and life is slowing down to a different, deeper, rhythm. I think I (ydi) am starting to see how tired I was. Today, when we hiked up some remote koppie to a cave high in the mountains, I realised how much I craved a break from the world. I think August's breakaway is from screens, job responsibilities and working really hard. I think I desperately needed a break from the postmodern world, from quarrels and opinions, hashtags and culture wars, headlines and arguments. Fatigued by too many people talking at once. Even being an artist has become pretty complicated.
So. Being away is good. Being able to sit still for once, looking at the swallows as they skilfully fly right up against the cliffs and then swerve off, providing for their young. How agile they are. Or watching large granite boulders turn pink, and then golden, and then grey as the globe turns, reliably, ignorant of our little lives. And then looking on as the milky way slowly appears and then starts to crowd a firmament where there are almost no other lights. Time has a different pace here. One has to hear the crickets here, now, to know it in your bones.
From the ghost mining town Kolmanskop we headed to the German port, Lüderitz, and then towards Sesriem, on the edge of the Namib desert. The famous Sossusvlei area is famous for its iconic red dune photos and dead trees, but driving into the park before sunrise for an early start, we were met by a gale force wind storm, obstructing our view, blowing sand in my camera, our clothes, ears and everywhere else. An older couple from Gauteng asked if we would drive and walk with them, which was good, as it was easy to lose one's way in the vast plains with the dust all around. We hiked a good few hours, found water in dead vlei (August waded in a bit and says it was frigid cold) and we were all struck by the harshness of the weather, the desolation and the remoteness of the place.
Other highlights traveling northward included Sesriem Canyon, camping at the foot of the remote Mirabib mountain and camping and hiking at Spitzkoppe. Everywhere we are near to almost the only visitors, with a beautiful silence hanging over the usually busy tourist spots. Humans are sparce in this Namibian landscape, which makes it a good place to clear your mind. We walk a lot, often in silence. We do small chores slowly, like cooking and washing. And then at night we watch the stars. Which is what I'm going to do now.
Ydi
So. Being away is good. Being able to sit still for once, looking at the swallows as they skilfully fly right up against the cliffs and then swerve off, providing for their young. How agile they are. Or watching large granite boulders turn pink, and then golden, and then grey as the globe turns, reliably, ignorant of our little lives. And then looking on as the milky way slowly appears and then starts to crowd a firmament where there are almost no other lights. Time has a different pace here. One has to hear the crickets here, now, to know it in your bones.
From the ghost mining town Kolmanskop we headed to the German port, Lüderitz, and then towards Sesriem, on the edge of the Namib desert. The famous Sossusvlei area is famous for its iconic red dune photos and dead trees, but driving into the park before sunrise for an early start, we were met by a gale force wind storm, obstructing our view, blowing sand in my camera, our clothes, ears and everywhere else. An older couple from Gauteng asked if we would drive and walk with them, which was good, as it was easy to lose one's way in the vast plains with the dust all around. We hiked a good few hours, found water in dead vlei (August waded in a bit and says it was frigid cold) and we were all struck by the harshness of the weather, the desolation and the remoteness of the place.
Other highlights traveling northward included Sesriem Canyon, camping at the foot of the remote Mirabib mountain and camping and hiking at Spitzkoppe. Everywhere we are near to almost the only visitors, with a beautiful silence hanging over the usually busy tourist spots. Humans are sparce in this Namibian landscape, which makes it a good place to clear your mind. We walk a lot, often in silence. We do small chores slowly, like cooking and washing. And then at night we watch the stars. Which is what I'm going to do now.
Ydi
03 June 2021
31 May 2021
‘The thing about Namibia is that it makes you feel small'
After a small 'shakedown camping trip' with cousin Ria-Leen we finally hit the road for the long run.
Traveling South a bit (the locals conviced us...), we chose Kolmanskop as our Southermost point and will travel northwards from here. Only a few days in and we've had stunning sunsets and desert views, gemsbok and zebra along the road, warm Namibian hospitality and many small laughs (Bovril leaking, wrong size wheelspanner, someone who knows someone in Namibia).
With only childhood memories of Kolmanskop and Lüderitz, it is great to visit these places anew. It is clear that tourism isn't doing great and one wonders about the times we live in. But if a random stranger shows you a photograph of their farm 'that year when it rained' you realise people here are used to waiting and taking their time. The landscape asks it of you. Namibia is teaching me so much already.
Photographs:
South West of Windhoek: Namib-Naukluft area, Kolmanskop, Diaz point
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21 May 2021
Stellenbosch to Windhoek - detours and rainy starts
It's been 6 days since we left Stellenbosch and we've travelled 2000km so far.
We left home in a bit of a rush (afraid we'll get stuck in another lock-down) so on top of being somewhat ruffled, a lekker cape winter downpour caught us unawares while loading the car and prepared us for the many unexpected twists (and the rainy season on the equator) that awaited us. Stuffed into the cruiser with wet clothes and sullen spirits, we knew there was still plenty of work, kit and car to be finished, but at least we had 'lift off' for now.
The simple drive to Windhoek proved to be more adventurous than we hoped when we encountered a closed border post at Vioolsdrift and had to take a 700km ompad to the closest border post, Nakop-Ariamsvlei. Luckily we were well stocked up on plattelandse hospitality after brief visits to Ladismith (the Basson family) and De doorns (the 'groenboontjiebredie' was amazing, thanks Carstense).
After a stay at the Okiep Hotel and fuel stops at Kakamas and Pofadder, a long day's drive to Grunau ensued, with another early morning start heading for the Louw family in Windhoek. August's last 'remote work week' proved a bit hard to maintain with the unplanned detours, but breakfast just outside Keetmans' gave us wifi and breakfast with a smile. And the folks at Capitec were great.
Windhoek is hot, dry and cold, if that makes sense, with night temperatures dropping below freezing point. But the Louw hospitality is always exceptional and with some good contacts and help from the family we managed to fit the last of the kit on the roof rack and sort out some last items (Sasol Bird Guide, free haircut, rusks and rooibos tee, some good advice on touring Namibia). Plus, having listened through our entire playlist on the first 3 days of driving, it was probably a good idea to add some more to the mix (thanks Rub and Arina for the playlist, can't go without baby shark).
We plan to spend the next two or three weeks travelling Namibia and the Caprivi, but will send updates of the beautiful places we visit as we go.
For some of Ydi's photographs you can see https://www.instagram.com/overlandtrip2021/ Also please use the link to "follow the adventure by e-mail" if you want to get updates.
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